Monday, 10 July 2017

Hi.....Its funny the little things you notice. Back home in Oz it doesn't seem to matter which petrol station I go to the little latch on the pump nozzle designed to allow you to just let it go while it fills NEVER ever seems to work!! Here in both Estonia and Latvia for that matter, it doesn't matter what petrol station we go to it ALWAYS works. This almost constitutes a reason for living here on a permanent basis......or maybe, starting up a company dedicated to fixing the stupid things. Cant be that hard. I guess the petrol companies are a bit short of cash!!!

Today in Estonia they celebrate Jaanipaev. This translates as St Johns day but as far as I can tell, it has very little to do with St John any more. Now days it is all about the summer solstice, that day in the year when the daylight is at is longest and the night at its shortest. This happens on the 24th June each year and Estonians have a holiday to enjoy this day. Yesterday, 23rd June, was "Voidupuha" which translates as " Victory Day" and celebrates Estonia's first independence in 1918, at the close of the First Word War and now, understandably, their current independence achieved in 1992. Of course, this is a holiday also, and this day Estonians raise their flag on every house, the blue, black and white emblem of this small republic. Incidentally, this is the only day of the year where the flag may remain up over night, for reasons I am not actually sure about, and so today, as we walk or drive around Tartu, from most houses the flag is flying. Like these sort of celebrations in most countries, Estonia's celebration of "Victory Day" gives prominence to the military and implies, as I observe it, that "victory" was a result of some sort of successful military campaign. Now it is true that in Estonia's history that there have been periods of "military" resistance, especially during the latter stages of the First World War (1918) and again during the period of the Second World War, but neither of these armed resistance activities on their own actually achieved independence. This is totally understandable Estonia being a tiny country in comparison to its aggressor, which on both these occasions was neighbouring Russia. Military success in such an unbalanced conflict was never a realistic outcome. It seems, at least to me and also some of Estonias historians, that independence was achieved on both these occasions by some astute and skilful 'leaders' who realised that the time was right to negotiate their independence. In the first instance of 1919 Russian power was severely depleted by their involvement in the First World War in Europe,  and on the second occasion (1992) the opportunity arose due to Gorbachev's reforms, which again marked a period of diminishing Russian power.  On both occasions these 'leaders', not necessarily politicians but including some, saw the opportunity and achieved a remarkable result, namely independence and Nationhood. Now it was true that military action proceeded the first period of independence, and the then Estonian military forces fought bravely and suffered losses in their bid for independence, but in the second and current experience (1992 ) no shot was fired and no blood shed. To me these achievements are all the more significant because they were not primarily military victories, but examples of skilful and, in particular, timely diplomacy. Trotting out the tanks for a military parade in some ways seems to perhaps overlook the central role of diplomacy in achieving independence. Perhaps more prominence could be given to the "Singing Revolution" that I wrote about in a previous post on this blog. On the other hand, there were people, in Estonia's history,who sacrificed their lives fighting for freedom, and this day is also a recognition of those sacrifices.

 Celebrations of these two national holidays days vary from the public to the private, from large city or town festivities to small family gatherings. One thing is certain, all people will celebrate in some way, and often it reminds me of our christmas celebrations.This is perhaps because of the warm summer weather, though in fact the weather this year was decidedly on the cool side. For example, in Tartu our city, on Jaanipaev eve there was a festival of music and dancing at one of the properties belonging to the National Museum called Raadi Park. This happy family orientated time included the lighting of a large bonfire on the stroke of midnight. These bonfires are the centre piece of celebrations all over Estonia on this night, whether they be official public celebrations in cities and towns, or just the celebrations of a family group. Bonfires feature often in Estonias festive periods, but this is the main night of fire for all Estonians. There is a tradition that when the fire begins to die down, you can take your partner, or just yourself, and jump over the fire. If you do that without getting singed it indicated that life ahead will be good and happy. If you don't make it, then life right then would not be so happy!!!!!! (This last bit is not in the tradition). Also on Victory Day some traditions apply. As the flag is raised people present, with hand over heart, sing the national anthem.....Muu Isamaa  (My Fatherland). This is a solemn and moving moment for Estonia people, and one can understand the depth of feeling given their tumultuous and painful history.
Once the formal  things are over it is time for beer and the grill (barbecue ). Maybe, if you are lucky, a chance to have a time in the sauna to help with the relaxation.  We celebrated here with our family and friends at the summer house in Kulitse, where all of the things mentioned above were experienced. Some years ago, when we celebrated Jaanipaev with our relatives, Raimu and Merike, I was made a honoury Estonian in a ceremony that required me to kneel and be tapped on each shoulder with bunch of birch leaves similar to those used in the sauna. This time we were be able to celebrate my  official status as a Temporary Resident.  Whether this designation has to do with my age and health, or just when they would like me to leave I am not quite certain.

It was fun to watch the excitement build as people approached these holidays in summer. As I mentioned above it was somewhat akin to our anticipation of christmas in Australia and our summer holiday period. Fortunately it is not accompanied by the frantic shopping for presents that mars this time in Australian life. One very noticeable thing is the presence of bunches and boquetes of flowers. Partly this is the product of all the graduating ceremonies from the university here in Tartu. Summer, therefore July through August, is university holidays. June is the time for final exams and for graduation. As there are many faculties at the university there are many graduations. Everyone, students and family and friends attending get dressed up in their very best and latest outfits to attend the gatherings. Every student, whether male or female, is given a large bouquet of flowers. So in central Tartu the town is beautified by the presence of all these students and staff carrying their bunches of colourful flowers. This continues for at least a couple of weeks and is a really nice experience for anyone walking around in the town centre. One wonders would our young men feel at home carrying flowers publicly like they do here. Sadly probably not. Culture is both designer and the outcome of prevailing public attitudes and actions wherever you live. Estonian culture turns June into a daily flower show, a event that adds considerably to the enjoyment of this month of the year.

Summer is the time for our Australian visitors, and we have been excited to greet them all and to show them a little of this lovely country. So far we have had Dave and Chris Hutchison from Tassie, Mike Allan from Tassie, Isaac Cann our grandson from Warragul, and at the moment Graeme and Julia Cann my brother and sister-in-law. Each one has brought something different to our lives here and hopefully Estonia has left a mark on their lives as well. Till next time.....Take care and enjoy each day.




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